Transalp 700 : Ma Transalp ne démarre plus...!

Bonjour à tous depuis 1 an ou 2 ma Transalp 700 de 2008 me pose des lapins...
4 ou 5 fois par an...(des fois 2 fois dans la semaine , des fois rien pendant 4 mois....etc....)
Je m'explique...:
Démarrage normal...je fais un trajet....puis parfois quand je veux redémarrer.... impossible...!!!
(Bequille enlevée, boite de vitesse sur N, coupe circuit sur ON).
Je mets le contact, l'aiguille du compteur fait bien son aller-retour habituel, j'entends la pompe tourner, j'actionne le démarreur, il tourne bien mais pas d'allumage.
Je re-essaye, 1, 2, 3, 4 fois...je mets une vitesse, j'avance et recule la moto en prise pour faire tourner le volant moteur,
Toujours RIEN..... je mets et enlève la béquille plusieurs fois au cas oui le contacteur ferait des siennes....RIEN.
J'actionne le coupe circuit ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.... toujours RIEN.
Je secoue, je tape, je bouge des fils, j'insulte, je m'énerve de ne pas comprendre le problème...et là... je fais un dernier essai avant de la laisser sur le trottoir et rentrer chez moi à pied....et miracle...! Elle démarre...!!!!

Vous allez me dire: "Et bien limite -toi au dernier essai...!!!" et vous auriez raison mais voila.....du coup cette Honda qui marche du feu de dieu quand elle s'allume n'est plus aussi rassurante et fiable qu'avant...

J'ai l'impression que c'est un problème de capteur qui coupe l'alimentation aux bougies mais lequel....
Sur le haut du piston AR il y a un capteur noir tenu par un petit boulon de 8 ou 10 je crois....Capteur d'arbre à came peut-être? Pourrait-il couper l'alimentation des bougies si ses 2 fils ou son connecteur avaient des soucis?
Y a-t-il d'autres capteurs qui pourraient engendrer ce problème de coupure d'allumage mais laisser tourner la pompe et le démarreur?

Merci de vos lumières...!

Bonjour,

Voici la procédure de diagnostic pour la Deauv 700.
Comme c'est la même motorisation, ça doit être la même procédure.
Si ça peut te ressortir un code d'erreur...



PGMI-FI Codes
Postby veloman » 04 Apr 2012, 11:46
There have been one or two posts in the past relating to the dreaded flashing FI light. The info below is extracted from the manual and hopefully may be of some help to any who have a problem with their FI light.

Love it or hate it, if you have a NT700 you will have a fuel injection system rather than the "old fashioned" carburettor system. The programmed fuel injection system or PGM-FI on a Deauville relies on various sensors around the bike and engine sending information to the bikes "brain", the electronic control unit or ECU which then controls the provision of sparks and fuel at the correct time for the conditions the bike is working in. If all works well this system should give optimum performance, economy and environmental friendliness. But what if it doesn't work correctly?
If the PGM-FI system doesn't work properly one of three things happens.
1) The engine stops and will not start!
2) The engine runs but is not "right", rough idling, poor acceleration, difficult starting etc
3) Nothing happens! The engine appears to run normally but the system says something is wrong.
In all the above the FI light will flash. If the bike suffers any of the problems above and the FI light behaves normally then the problem is unlikely to be in the PGM-FI.

When all is well with the PGM-FI system, on switching on the ignition with the engine stop switch on the right handlebar control in the "run" position the FI light (The Malfunction Indicator Lamp or MIL) on the instrument panel should come on for a few seconds and then go off indicating that the FI light circuitry and the PGM-FI is happy with all the signals being received from the various sensors.
If the PGMI-FI system detects a problem, the MIL will flash. It flashes a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). A DTC has two parts, the first part or main code refers to the component or function that has failed. The second part or sub code gives specific symptoms of the component or function failure.
Only the main code is given by the flashing MIL. Therefore the following list of FI or MIL codes will give an indication of where the problem lies, not exactly what it is. BUT, if you know what the problem component is you can check the plugs and sockets, wires, earths etc associated with it which are quite often the source of the problem.

The MIL has a long (1.3 sec) flash and a short (0.5sec) flash. The long flash represents 10 short flashes.
If you switch on your ignition and the FI light flashes two long flashes followed by one short flash
the PGM-FI has displayed a DTC of 21 because the O2 sensor in the exhaust system has a problem. Simples!

Diagnostic Trouble Codes and symptoms indicated by the FI light

1 Flash Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor or circuitry faulty. Engine operates normally.
2 Flashes MAP sensor or circuitry faulty, loose or poor connection of vacuum hose. Engine operates normally.
7 flashes Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor or circuitry faulty. Engine hard to start at low temperatures, fan on permanently.
8 Flashes Throttle Position (TP) sensor or circuitry faulty. Poor engine acceleration.
9 Flashes Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor or circuitry faulty. Engine operates normally.
11 Flashes Vehicle Speed (VS) sensor or its circuitry faulty. Engine operates normally.
12 Flashes No.1 injector or its circuitry faulty. Engine does not start. Fuel pump and ignition shut down.
13 Flashes As per 12 flashes above but No.2 injector.
18 Flashes Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) or its circuitry faulty. Engine does not start. Fuel pump and ignition shut down
19 Flashes Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor or circuitry faulty. Engine does not start. Injectors, fuel pump and ignition shut down.
21 Flashes O2 Sensor or its circuitry faulty. Engine operates normally
23 Flashes O2 Sensor heater circuit faulty. Engine operates normally
29 Flashes Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) or its circuit faulty. Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling.

If a component malfunction occurs, in some cases a default setting will be used to enable the bike to continue in "limp mode". This is called the fail safe function.
The ECT sensor has a failsafe of 90 deg C/194 deg F
The TP sensor has a failsafe of 0 degrees.
The IAT has a failsafe of 25 deg C/77 deg F

Dealers have test equipment (expensive) that enables more detailed information on any problem to be retrieved from the PGM-FI. Additional equipment is also available such as test harnesses that enables further measurements to be made in the PGM-FI circuitry to help localise problems. For the average owner careful checking of plugs and sockets, wiring and earthing is worth doing before seeking professional help.





Read & Reset Maintenance Indicating Light (MIL), aka Check Engine Light (CEL)
Before STARTING the NT, verify the MIL light has cleared after the short self-check. If the MIL stays on after the short self check, don't start the NT or cycle the ignition switch to clear the MIL.

If the MIL is present after the short self-check before starting the engine, read the MIL code by:
-shifting to neutral
-release clutch
-lower kickstand
Read MIL flashes. Long is ~1.3 seconds & counts as 10. Short is .5 second & counts as 1. If there is more than one code, it should blink one code then the next in numerical order (not chronological order), then it continues to repeat flashing the codes.

If the MIL clears as normal after the self check, but the NT is hard to start & no MIL as come on, crank to start for >10 seconds & a MIL should come on. Then while the MIL is on, do the above to read the MIL flash codes.

If you notice a MIL when riding, pull over and don't turn engine off. If the engine dies because of the MIL, don't turn the ignition off. Read the MIL flash codes by performing the following steps.
-shifting to neutral
-release clutch
-lower kickstand
Read MIL flashes. Long is ~1.3 seconds & counts as 10. Short is .5 second & counts as 1. If there is more than one code, it should blink one code then the next in numerical order (not chronological order), then it continues to repeat flashing the codes.

How to read MIL codes stored in ECM.
If you see a MIL, the code for MIL will also be stored in your ECM even if the MIL has since cleared. If you want to read the fault for a previous event when the MIL was on but it has since cleared, do this:
-Ignition switch off
-Remove seat and left side cover.
-Remove the red cap off of the Dummy Load Connector (DLC). It's the 4 wire connector with the red cap just forward of the ECM (main computer card).
-Insert a shorting wire into the Brown and Green wire's terminals of the DLC. I use a ~4" long speaker wire. Any small wire should work. Don't jam a big wire in there.
-Verify engine kill switch is ON.
-Turn Ignition switch ON
-Read blink codes on MIL
If there is more than one code, it should blink one code then the next in numerical order (not chronological order), then it continues to repeat flashing the codes.
-Turn ignition switch off, remove shorting wire, replace cap & side cover & seat.

How to clear the codes in the ECM.
The ECM doesn't save the previous fault codes in chronological order. Because of that, it is a good idea to clear the codes & keep the register empty so that in an event of a new MIL fault code occurring there won't be other codes stored in the ECM to confuse any future troubleshooting. If you are concerned about having proof of past codes (ie ...to show a shop) I would suggest videoing your old codes flashing. To clear the codes:
-Ignition switch off
-Remove seat and left side cover.
-Remove the red cap off of the Dummy Load Connector (DLC). It's the 4 wire connector with the red cap just forward of the ECM (main computer card).
-Insert a shorting wire into the Brown and Green wire's terminals of the DLC. I use a ~4" long speaker wire. Any small wire should work.
-Verify engine kill switch is ON.
-Turn Ignition switch to ON.
-Temporarily remove the shorting wire in the DLC plug. The MIL will have a solid yellow light for 5 seconds, reinsert the shorting wire into same Brown/Green wire terminals on the DLC during the 5 seconds.
-Verify MIL goes OFF, then starts blinking. The ECM memory is now cleared. If you're unsure that the codes were cleared try reading the stored codes in the ECM from steps above.
-Turn ignition switch off, remove shorting wire, replace cap & side cover & seat.

MIL blink codes for the NT
1 MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) Sensor Voltage high or low
2 MAP Sensor performance problem
7 ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor voltage high or low
8 TP (Throttle Position) Sensor voltage high or low
9 IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) Sensor voltage high or low
11 VS (Vehicle Speed) sensor lost
12 [Vous devez être inscrit et connecté pour voir ce lien] injector malfunction. Will not start.
13 [Vous devez être inscrit et connecté pour voir ce lien] injector malfunction. Will not start.
18 CMP (Cam Position) sensor lost. Will not start.
19 CKP (Crank Position) sensor lost. Will not start.
21 O2 sensor malfunction
22 O2 sensor heater malfunction
29 IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) malfunction